MAGAZINE ARTICLE - THE EDDIE

Photographer Arto Saari caught an incredible photo of Luke Shepardson surfing the winning wave at the Eddie in January 2023.

Photographer Arto Saari caught an incredible photo of Luke Shepardson surfing the winning wave at the Eddie in January 2023.

Every once in a while, when the waves are just right and reach 40 feet minimum, Waimea Bay hosts one of the world’s most-storied sporting events, the famed Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational. The Eddie competition is the rarest of rare surf contests, one that defies human scheduling and relies instead on the whims of nature. It is named in honor of the legendary Native Hawaiian Eddie Aikau—a big-wave surfer and the area’s first lifeguard.

The 10th anniversary of the Eddie took place in January 2023. As recounted in a beautifully written profile by Gabriella Paiella, the events of the day will give you goosebumps (or as it’s called in Hawaii, chicken skin).

Here’s what you need to know:

  • Luke Shepardson was born and raised on the North Shore of Oahu. As a kid, Luke would sleep with his arms wrapped around a surfboard.

  • He is known as “Casual Luke.” In Hawaii. Which is like being called “Neurotic Matt” on the island of Manhattan. Luke is especially humble and chill.

  • Luke dropped out of high school at 15, earned his GED, and taught surf lessons while he traveled the world competing, trying to make it as a pro. But then at 22, life made a decision for him: his girlfriend Natalia was pregnant.

  • Initially, Luke tried working as an electrician. His job involved repairing malfunctioning doors while prisoners heckled him. It was miserable, and he realized something watching his more-senior coworkers who made five times what he did: “If you’re not happy, I’d rather be broke and happy.”

  • At 23, he became a lifeguard. Luke says that surfing these waters since childhood gave him an advantage, and that lifeguarding has since made him a better surfer, teaching him to be more aware of everything around him.

  • The day of the Eddie, Luke was an on-duty lifeguard, and could only compete during his breaks. He beat out the world’s greatest surfers in the greatest surf contest there is, and then excused himself to finish his shift at the lifeguard tower, staying until the crowds had left. He then went home to eat pizza and watch The Lion King with his kids.

Luke Shepardson, a lifeguard who won one of the biggest surfing competitions in the world, while on a work break, fulfilled his childhood dreams, even if he didn’t take the most direct route. In a way, isn’t that more satisfying?

A quote from a profile of Luke Shepardson, a lifeguard who won one of the biggest surfing competitions in the world, while on a work break.

Luke and Natalia with their sons, Haven and Wild.

Luke celebrating his win with Natalia and friends. Luke won a prize of $10,000 and the Hawaiian Lifeguard Association made him a custom wooden surfboard to celebrate the win.

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